Direct sowing

Direct sowing simply means putting seed into the soil exactly where the plants will grow and crop, with no pots, trays or transplanting in between. The seedlings germinate in place and stay put for their whole life. It is the opposite of raising plants undercover and moving them out later, and for many vegetables it is the easiest, cheapest way to start.

Which crops prefer it

Some crops strongly prefer being sown direct because they dislike root disturbance. Moving them on can check their growth or cause them to bolt. The classic candidates are:

• Carrots and parsnips — long taproots fork or split if disturbed, so always sow direct.
• Beetroot, radish and turnip — quick, fuss-free root crops that crop best sown in the ground.
• Peas, broad beans, runner beans and French beans — large seeds that germinate readily in warm soil.

Quick salad leaves, spring onions and spinach also do well sown direct, and you can repeat the sowings every few weeks for a steady supply.

Drills and spacing

The usual method is to sow into a drill — a shallow, straight groove drawn out with the corner of a hoe or a cane. Most small seed goes about 1cm deep; larger seed such as beans and peas goes 3–5cm deep. Sow thinly along the drill, cover the seed back over with soil, firm gently and water with a fine rose.

Sowing in straight rows makes life easier later: you can tell your seedlings from weeds, and hoe between the lines. Spacing matters too. Even when sown carefully, you will usually need to do some thinning — pulling out the weakest seedlings so the rest have room to size up. Seed packets give the right final spacing for each crop, typically a few centimetres apart for roots and salad, and more for beans.

Warming soil

The main reason direct sowing fails in the UK is cold, wet soil. Seed sown into ground below about 7°C tends to sit, sulk and rot rather than germinate. As a rough guide, wait until the soil is workable and warming — usually April onwards outdoors, later in the north or after a cold spring.

You can get ahead by warming the soil with a cloche, a cold frame or a sheet of fleece a couple of weeks before sowing, then keeping it covered to protect the young seedlings. A simple test: if the soil sticks to your boots in claggy lumps, it is too cold and wet to sow. Wait for a dry, crumbly surface, rake it to a fine tilth, and your seed will be away much faster.

For tender crops such as courgettes and beans, hold off until late May or June, or start them undercover and plant out after the last frost instead.